by Nicola Jenkins
Introduction
This feature shows you how to make a wide selection
of stimulating and soothing products for cleansing,
toning and moisturising, as well as wonderful natural oils
and bubble baths to complete your aromatherapy routine.
The recipes should not take more than ten minutes to
produce, and will be ready for immediate use. I have included
some of my favourite recipes, and I have described them so
that you are able to imagine their aroma before you blend them.
Materials
Glass Jars and Bottles
Various shapes and sizes are needed for your blends.
Glass is better than plastic, as it can be sterilised at a high
temperature after use, and you can therefore recycle any
beautiful bottles you find. Amber glass jars and bottles are
usually available from your local chemist.
Plastic Bottles
Plastic bottles of various shapes and sizes are best for blends
that will be placed near the bath or shower. Containers with
flip-top caps, pump actions or sprays are suitable. Be careful
about recycling them however, as plastic can retain traces of
essential oils. Do not use plastic bottles which have contained
medication.
Glass Mixing Bowl and Glass Rod
A glass mixing bowl or jug and a glass rod are best for blending,
as they can be cleaned properly after use. If you don't have
a glass rod, a metal spoon can be used instead.
Unperfumed, Lanolin-Free Bubble Baths, Shower Gels,
Shampoos, Conditioners, Moisturisers and Cleansers
Various such products are now available. They often have
labels indicating they can be used on infants, or on sensitive
or damaged skin. You should avoid perfume-based products.
Lanolin, a waxy product found on sheep's wool, also causes
some sensitivity in those who are allergic to wool, or have
very sensitive skin, so is best avoided.
Grapeseed Oil
This good, all-purpose carrier oil is ideal as a base for massage
blends or bath oils. It has a light, non-greasy texture, so it
will not feel sticky.
Avocado Oil
This carrier oil is heavier than Jojoba and is therefore
appropriate for a drier, more mature skin. It is useful for
anti-aging blends.
Sweet Almond Oil
A good all-round carrier oil which is also useful for
massage blends.
Calendula Oil
This light oil is not as greasy as Sweet Almond oil.
It is wonderful for treating scar tissue and reducing
the size and appearance of stretch marks, and
can help to heal skin marked by severe acne.
If you find that it doesn't moisturise your skin
as much as you would like, blend it with
equal portions of Jojoba or Grapeseed oil.
Jojoba Oil
Jojoba is technically a wax, bought in liquid form.
It is an enriching carrier oil and a wonderful base for
face products – either as a face oil itself, or
used sparingly to enhance a moisturiser.
Flower Waters
These are a by-product of the distillation of essential oils
and they smell slightly of their floral origins. Gently astringent,
they can be used on their own as effective toners.
Rose Water smells pleasant and is available from
most pharmacies. Orange Flower water (Neroli) also
has a pleasant smell. Both are useful bases for perfumes.
Lavender water is an acquired taste and might be best left alone.
Surgical Spirit/Alcohol
Surgical spirit or alcohol can be used to fix perfumes.
If you are using alcohol, vodka is the most appropriate
as it has no scent of its own.
Measuring Cups, Jugs or Spoons
These are used to measure liquid base products.
A glass measuring jug would be appropriate,
although a plastic one is fine, as long as the essential oils
are not placed in it.
Metal Spoon
For blending when you don't have access to a glass rod.
This is easier to clean than plastic or wood.
Essential Oils
See recipes.
Techniques
Shampoos, face oils, cleansers and toners, shower gels,
bubble baths, moisturisers and massage oils can be made
quickly and easily. Use an unperfumed base that relates to
the item you want to make. I am making a shampoo here,
and have chosen an unperfumed, lanolin-free shampoo base.
The amount of essential oils added depends on the quantity of
base product used. As a guide, for a total of 20ml (0.6fl oz) of
liquid base product, use 8 drops of essential oils.
Use 20 drops for every 50g (1.8oz) of cream base.
You can use just one essential oil, or choose several.
Here, I use a total of 100ml (3.2fl oz) of shampoo base and
40 drops from a selection of three essential oils.
Perfumes are made in the same way, substituting flower water and
surgical spirit or alcohol in place of the base product.
To make perfumes, use surgical spirit or alcohol at Step 1 and
the flower water at Step 4. You will notice that you use
fewer drops of essential oil for perfumes; this is because
the essential oils don't mix as well with water and alcohol
as they do with carrier oils. At these lower levels, you are
unlikely to get an adverse skin reaction.
Storing Finished Products
Your finished products have a shelf life of around one month
to six weeks. This can be extended by an extra two weeks if
the products are stored in a cool location, such as a fridge.
Although the perfume should remain beyond this period,
the blends are unlikely to be fully effective in therapeutic terms.
Recipes
Cleansers and Toners
Cleansers and toners can enhance the effects of aromatherapy
face oils and moisturisers, and speed up the healing rate,
when used in your daily routine. Use an unperfumed cleanser
as a base.
Cleansers remove trapped dirt, cleanse the skin and calm and
soothe any inflamed areas. They are particularly effective when
used with essential oils which have strong antiseptic qualities,
such as Lavender, Bergamot, Geranium and Grapefruit.
Anti-inflammatories such as Yarrow and Chamomile are excellent,
as are oils such as Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Frankincense,
Patchouli, Benzoin, Rosewood and Rose, which all help to
heal skin conditions.
The above oils are excellent too when used in toner recipes,
although the more astringent ones are better for
particularly oily skin – Lemon, Peppermint, Rosemary and
Lemongrass. These can be blended in unscented toners or,
for the best results, use flower waters such as Orange Blossom or
Rose Water. Rose Water blended with Witch Hazel is a good base for
an oily skin. The Witch Hazel gives the Rose Water a more astringent
and antiseptic quality. Plain Rose Water is more appropriate for
anyone with dry or sensitive skin.
Citrus Cleanser
A woody, citrus-like, mildly astringent blend which is
excellent for combination skin – it will help to balance out patches
of dry and oily skin.
Grapefruit 4 drops
Geranium 2 drops
Cedarwood 3 drops
50g (1.8oz) cleanser
Forest Toner
A soothing blend which cools and calms the skin.
It can also help to reduce the inflammation and infection
associated with acne.
Bergamot 7 drops
Sandalwood 5 drops
Lavender 3 drops
40ml (1.3fl oz) Rose Water or unscented toner
Cheer Up Cleanser
This is a delicate blend which raises the spirits and improves
circulation. Rosewood and Grapefruit are both mild astringents
and together with Palmarosa they will improve the colour and
texture of the skin.
Palmarosa 3 drops
Rosewood 4 drops
Grapefruit 3 drops
50g (1.8oz) cleanser
Moisturisers
Moisturisers are one of the easiest cosmetics to enhance with
essential oils. There is a large range of lanolin-free, fragrance-free,
hypoallergenic products available. A moisturiser's job is to
soothe dry skin, reduce fine lines and provide a little
additional help at weatherproofing. You can enhance the effects of
your moisturiser, not only with essential oils, but also
by adding a little Jojoba oil – 5ml (0.2fl oz) for every 50g (1.8oz)
of moisturiser– or an Evening Primrose oil capsule to the blend.
Don't forget, you can adapt these recipes to use them
with a liquid base – a bubble bath, shampoo or shower gel.
Simply increase the liquid base to 60ml (1.8fl oz) and
use the same recipe given here.
After Gardening
This aromatic herbaceous moisturiser brings
the garden into the home, reminding us of how plants can be
beneficial in a variety of ways. Lavender has antiseptic properties
and will soothe cuts, grazes, insect bites or stings.
Lemon is a mild astringent and Marjoram is wonderful for
aching muscles and joints.
Lavender 3 drops
Lemon 2 drops
Marjoram 3 drops
50g (1.8oz) moisturiser
The Orange Tree
A light blend which smells like a citrus grove –
the blossom and fruit of the orange tree, plus a hint of wood.
An excellent remedy for dry skin, for those experiencing
anxiety or for anyone unable to fully express their emotions.
Orange 6 drops
Neroli 4 drops
Sandalwood 10 drops
50g (1.8oz) moisturiser
After-Sun
This soothes burnt skin and is extremely useful when
used as an after-sun cream. It can also reduce uncomfortable,
dry, scaly eczema patches. As an added bonus,
it seems to keep mosquitoes at bay too!
Yarrow 4 drops
Lavender 8 drops
Cedarwood 4 drops
Bergamot 3 drops
50 g (1.8oz) moisturiser
Sleepy Time
As well as being a great moisturiser for cracked skin,
this is an effective remedy for those experiencing constipation,
insomnia or nightmares. A favourite blend with children,
the vanilla-like smell of Benzoin, and the fruity orange aroma,
make this a familiar and comfortable fragrance.
These oils can also be used in a bubble bath.
Orange 9 drops
Benzoin 6 drops
Roman Chamomile 5 drops
50g (1.8oz) moisturiser
Aching Joints
This is an excellent moisturiser for anyone who has aching joints.
It offers a little pain relief, and it will warm the hands and
soothe the skin. Add a capsule of Evening Primrose oil to
the blend and you will have a lovely rich moisturiser which
should improve the condition of your hands.
Roman Chamomile 4 drops
Yarrow 4 drops
Lavender 6 drops
Rose 2 drops
50g (1.8oz) moisturiser
Face Oils
A certain amount of oil is needed in our skin to keep it
waterproof, weatherproof and generally in good condition.
A face oil can help. Sparingly applied, the right blend can
balance adolescent skin – clearing it and leaving it supple
and reasonably unblemished.
Jojoba oil helps to maintain more mature skin, and
can reduce fine lines. Jojoba oil is also particularly effective
for blemished or combination skin. Its chemical structure is
similar to that of sebum, the skin's naturally occurring oil.
Sebum dissolves in Jojoba, so by applying it you can help to
loosen any dirt trapped in the pores.
Avocado oil is absorbed into drier, finer skin quickly.
Its richer, heavier structure means that it is also extremely good
as a moisturiser and it is an excellent base under make-up.
However, I recommend that you wait at least fifteen minutes after
moisturising before applying any make-up.
Where the skin is scarred – from chicken pox, acne, cuts or
more severe wounds – try using Calendula oil as a carrier.
In many cases, it can significantly reduce the appearance of
scar tissue, softening and encouraging the skin's normal growth.
Clarity
This blend is wonderful for adolescent skin which is affected by
hormonal changes, and it is popular with teenage males.
It smells clean and musky, like a gentle cologne, and makes
a nice change from the antiseptic smell of medicinal products.
Lavender 5 drops
Lemon 3 drops
Sandalwood 2 drops
25ml (0.8fl oz) Jojoba oil
Eraser
I sometimes think of this as nature's bottle of correction fluid –
it really does help to soothe and soften scar tissue.
It also heals cracked and dry skin, leaving it supple and unblemished.
Benzoin 3 drops
Frankincense 2 drops
Sandalwood 2 drops
Rose 1 drop
20ml (0.6fl oz) Calendula oil
Reservation
A wonderful blend for itching skin and dry eczema or dermatitis,
this also doubles as a great after-sun blend if used in a moisturiser.
It helps to heal the skin, keeps it moist and stops it itching.
German Chamomile 2 drops
Lavender 4 drops
Cedarwood 3 drops
25ml (0.8fl oz) Grapeseed oil or unperfumed moisturiser
Rejuvenation
This delicate blend is excellent for dry and wrinkled skin,
leaving it moist and younger looking. It also smells heavenly –
like a flower garden at night, inducing relaxation and sleep
if used at bedtime.
Frankincense 4 drops
Rose 2 drops
Neroli 2 drops
20ml (0.6fl oz) Avocado oil
Shampoos
Essential oils can be extremely beneficial when used on
the scalp and hair. Different blends can improve blood circulation,
make hair shinier, ease dandruff or help combat head lice –
and the fragrance will linger in your hair and in the bathroom.
To give your hair the equivalent of a spa holiday, make up
the same blend in a carrier oil such as Grapeseed,
to make a deep-conditioning treatment. Apply this to your dry hair,
wrap it in plastic or in a plastic shower cap, then wrap a towel
around your head and leave it for an hour. After an hour,
add enough shampoo to the hair to raise a mild lather,
then add water and shampoo as normal. This will add extra shine
to your hair.
Don't forget, you can also blend essential oils in conditioners,
to complete the healthy hair picture. Either stick to the same oils
and recipes as for shampoos, or adapt them a bit.
Zest
An energising blend which improves blood circulation to
the scalp, leaving you awake and refreshed. Improving circulation
has been known to slow down hair loss.
Grapefruit 3 drops
Peppermint 3 drops
Lavender 2 drops
20ml (0.6fl oz) shampoo
Circulation
This is quite a strong blend which can help improve
blood circulation to the scalp. It can also be used to
combat dandruff and dry, flaky skin. Those prone to
dandruff may find that using a capful of vinegar in
the after-shampoo rinse water will improve the condition
of their scalp.
Bergamot 5 drops
Rosemary 2 drops
Lavender 3 drops
25ml (0.8fl oz) shampoo
Strength
This shampoo is a treat for anyone with fine, fragile hair,
as the oils have cytophylactic properties (they encourage
healthy cell growth). For the best results,
before shampooing make up the same blend in a
carrier oil such as Grapeseed. Apply a deep-conditioning
treatment as described above, then shampoo using this recipe.
This will condition your hair and add extra shine.
Sandalwood 2 drops
Frankincense 2 drops
Bergamot 2 drops
Lavender 2 drops
20ml (0.6fl oz) shampoo
Bubble Baths
When things get on top of you, there is nothing quite like
a good soak in a hot tub with a good book or some soft music –
up to your neck in bubbles. It is relaxing, soothing and uplifting,
especially if the bath is perfumed with scented oils,
specially chosen for their restorative properties.
The following recipes will add a little something to your pleasure,
and leave you feeling calm, refreshed and ready to conquer the world.
The recipes here focus on some of the more exotic essential oils,
mainly because I am bored with all the commercial bubble baths
containing Lavender, Geranium and Ylang Ylang.
If you want a more zesty, energizing blend,
try creating your own recipe. Start with three essential oils that
make you feel refreshed and lively (for a 'morning' type of scent,
make one of them a citrus oil – but check that you are not
sensitive to these first.) Check the maximum doses for
the oils then blend accordingly. Try adding your essential oils
one drop at a time (one drop of oil A, followed by one of B, and so on),
mixing well and then smelling the blend before you add more.
This will take longer, but it gives you a clear idea of how just one drop
can make a huge difference to how you feel about your creation.
Water Sprite
A tropical blend which should get you going on those cold,
grey winter mornings. Lemongrass is great for muscular aches and pains,
Coriander will give your immune system a boost and
Jasmine regulates hormonal imbalances. This bubble bath smells
gorgeous and it can also be used as a perfume. Reduce the dosage of
Lemongrass and Jasmine if you have a sensitive skin,
as they can sometimes cause an uncomfortable reaction.
Lemongrass 3 drops
Jasmine 2 drops
Coriander 3 drops
20ml (0.6fl oz) bubble bath
Miracle Worker
When you need to create miracles tomorrow,
but can't quite face up to them today, try this blend.
Frankincense helps you to breathe calmly and deeply,
Ginger settles the butterflies in your stomach and
Neroli lifts your spirits and combats shock.
The result – a clear head and calm mind.
Frankincense 4 drops
Ginger 2 drops
Neroli 2 drops
20ml (0.6fl oz) bubble bath
Tranquillity
Try this one in the evening – the ingredients will help you sleep.
Marjoram and Yarrow are both excellent for muscular
aches and pains, especially after heavy exercise.
Geranium is uplifting and can promise pleasant dreams.
All are good for the skin, especially if it is dry.
Marjoram 3 drops
Yarrow 3 drops
Geranium 2 drops
20ml (0.6fl oz) bubble bath
Zen
Not quite a minimalist blend, but the effects leave you completely
calm, with a clutter-free mind and a beatific smile on your face.
It's good for muscular aches and pains, sinusitis, minor chest
complaints and for when your immune system needs a bit of a boost.
Also excellent for keeping mosquitoes at bay.
Coriander 3 drops
Patchouli 2 drops
Vetiver 2 drops
Palmarosa 3 drops
30ml (1fl oz) bubble bath
Massage Oils
Massage is one of the main ways of experiencing the benefits that
essential oils offer, and you do not have to be a professional
Aromatherapist to use them in this way. Any of the carrier oils
can be used; I would suggest Grapeseed oil as it is relatively
inexpensive and easy to obtain. Massage oils can also be used as
intensive moisturisers for your skin, either by adding a spoonful of
a blend to your bath or by applying the oil after bathing.
Macadamia Nut oil is one of the more expensive carrier oils but
it soaks into the skin relatively quickly and does not leave any residue.
If you would like a high quality carrier oil that is not as expensive,
Sweet Almond oil is a good alternative.
If your skin is very dry, try enriching your chosen carrier by
adding 5ml (1 teaspoon) of Jojoba or Avocado oil to the recipe.
This will give the final blend a silkier texture, and your skin will
feel much softer.
Calendula can be a useful carrier oil if you are trying to reduce
the effects of scar tissue or stretch marks. Some people find that
it is absorbed extremely quickly into the skin, so if you have dry
or combination skin, try blending it with Jojoba oil.
Anti-Stretch Marks
Try this blend to help remove stretch marks after giving birth.
During pregnancy, plain Calendula oil can help prevent them.
Roman Chamomile 1 drop
Frankincense 2 drops
Lavender 1 drop
20ml (0.6fl oz) Calendula oil
Muscle Soother
If you have a stiff neck or tense shoulders, this blend will help
to ease muscle spasm. It is warming and soothing, reducing any
inflammation – and it will help to relieve pain.
German Chamomile 1 drop
Rosemary 2 drops
Lavender 2 drops
Marjoram 3 drops
20ml (0.6fl oz) Grapeseed oil
Poor Circulation
If you have poor circulation, this blend will warm your hands and
feet – whatever the weather. Rosemary can also be used to improve
circulation. Try using it in this blend instead of Vetiver.
Vetiver 2 drops
Ginger 3 drops
Grapefruit 3 drops
20ml (0.6fl oz) Grapeseed oil
Doze
This smoky, citrus-like blend is popular if you are having problems
sleeping, either through overwork, aching muscles or stress.
Gently relaxing and comforting, it will have you snoozing in no time.
Vetiver 3 drops
Lavender 4 drops
Orange 4 drops
30ml (1fl oz) Grapeseed oil
Breathe Easy
Here is a wonderful oil which will help respiration if are suffering
from a chest infection, hay fever or asthma. It will also help to
ease aches and pains associated with winter colds and flu,
clearing catarrh and encouraging you to breathe more easily.
Cedarwood 3 drops
Frankincense 3 drops
Benzoin 2 drops
20ml (0.6fl oz) Grapeseed oil
Clearing Cobwebs
Clear the cobwebs away from your mind and body with this
energising blend, which is excellent when you want to make decisions
or if you need to motivate yourself. Lemongrass and
Ginger are both excellent for muscular aches and pains, and
together with Geranium, they help ease digestive difficulties.
The overall effect is gently warming and tropical.
Ginger 3 drops
Lemongrass 2 drops
Geranium 3 drops
20ml (0.6fl oz) Grapeseed oil
